Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Brasserie 28, Andover

     Last night was date night with my mom. My last night off for awhile. So, I decided to get some research done. I opted to go to a restaurant I had been hearing some buzz about (mainly their wine). Brasserie 28, formerly known as Bin 28, in Andover, Ma.
     The setting is cute. Located on the side skirts of a cobble stone path in Andover. It's a quaint little place. The atmosphere seemed very modern-cozy-chic. If there is such a thing.. Intimate lighting, a bit dark for my mother, but I didn't mind it. Vaguely reminded me of Stella, Boston (minus all the white). 
     They have a Napa technology wine station behind the bar. It preserves and dispenses the reds from a climate controlled (61 degree) system. The whites are stored how they commonly are (in a mini fridge). The wine selection wasn't bad. They had a pretty extensive selection of reds, but not too large of a variety for the whites. However, you are given the choice of a half glass, full glass, carafe, or bottle. Which is actually nice, because you can taste a few different wines. Without the obligations that come with full glasses. I had a nice Pinot Gris (Oregon), and an old vine Zinfandel (California).
     We ordered a couple of appetizers, a side, and a cured meat. The plates were portioned small. They had the feel of tapas. Meant to be ordered in abundance, to actually get full. I however, like the concept of trying multiple small bites without getting too full. Being a big fan of grazing and all.. A tomato salad, gnocchi, coppa, and rabe were on the menu for the night.
     The baby heirloom tomato salad that they prepared was good. Accompanied by feta, almonds, frisee, microgreens, fennel, and sherry. It was sweet, sour, salty,juicy, and crunchy. Both my mother and I, enjoyed it. They just needed to add a tad more salt.
   
     However, when it came to the gnocchi. They were very well seasoned, and accompanied by a delightful trio. Chanterelle mushrooms (mmmmmm!), tarragon, and comte le forte. It seemed clear to me that they were house-made. Which normally, I would have appreciated even more. But the dough had been over-mixed. This resulted in a "gummy" texture, and they were far too soft. I like something to bite into when I am eating pasta. The concept was quite good, just not enough execution. 
     We also shared a side of broccoli rabe, and some red-wine cured coppa. I adore charcuterie. Even if it makes me feel like a balloon the next morning. I find that it is well worth it. The coppa did not disappoint. It was porky, salty (not too salty), and delicious. I however think that they should just forgo the bread and replace it with a few more slices of coppa. 
     I also enjoyed the rabe. My mother thought that it was a bit pungent. I liked that it was  garlicky, bitter, salty, cheesy, and spicy. Though I could not figure out what the spice was.. It had not said anything about the spice on the menu, nor did it bear any appearance of peppers. I thought initially it was the garlic puree, but realized it wasn't that kind of spice. No matter however, I still enjoyed it.
     To sum it up.. I will most likely go back. How frequently? That, I do not know. I will have to dive a bit deeper into their menu to make that choice.          
     
      

1 comment:

  1. You are clear and concise with your observations and I could almost taste the gnocchi based upon your description. I'm going to try them tonight, hopefully there's a fresh batch of gnocchi that isn't overmixed because I too am not a fan of that gummy texture.... Keep up the good work!

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